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Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé

Oct. 13, 2023 – Feb. 18, 2024

The first museum exhibition honoring the visionary Jewish entrepreneur Gaby Aghion (1921-2014) and her legacy as the founder of the French fashion house Chloé.

Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé casts a new light on the label’s 70-year history with nearly 150 garments as well as never-before-exhibited sketches and documents from the Chloé Archive. Highlighting Aghion’s vision of effortless, luxurious fashion, and the work of iconic designers who began their careers with the brand, including Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo, the exhibition showcases Aghion as a leader whose work altered the course of the global fashion industry in liberating women’s bodies from the restrictive attitudes and styles of the time, as well as pioneering the emergence of luxury ready-to-wear. By capturing the mood of the moment, Aghion founded a fashion brand characterized by an easy elegance.

The exhibition will explore the ways in which each subsequent creative director after Aghion uniquely interpreted the Chloé ethos and echoed the needs of their time, from the development of ready-to-wear to embracing sustainable practices in fashion. This historical overview includes designs by Karl Lagerfeld (first hired by Aghion in 1964), Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon, Clare Waight Keller, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and Gabriela Hearst.

 

In the Press
“Curated by Choghakate Kazarian, the first major museum show on the legacy of Aghion’s work tells the multifaceted story of the French fashion powerhouse in all its delicate detail.”
W Magazine

“The timing has never been more apropos for an exhibition honoring a visionary, forward-thinking Jewish woman.”
Elle

“Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé at the Jewish Museum in New York…puts the spotlight on Aghion’s legacy and the slew of prominent designers—including Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and Gabriela Hearst—all of whom launched their own careers by working at the fashion house.”
Architectural Digest

“(Gaby Aghion’s) … spirit is on full display at the Jewish Museum‘s show “Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé,” which opened last week. It takes a look at not just the pioneering designs of its founder, and the way she upended the look of the time, but also at the way her brand has evolved in the decades since, acting as a conduit for a string of extremely talented designers to take that original idea and update it for the times.”
Artnet News

“a joyful exploration of the fashion house founder’s work.”
Condé Nast Traveler

“the first exhibition to honor the woman who created Chloé, a refined brand that’s still going strong today.”
The Wall Street Journal

Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé is organized by the Jewish Museum: Claudia Gould, Director Emerita and Exhibition Project Director; Choghakate Kazarian, Guest Curator; and Kristina Parsons, Leon Levy Assistant Curator. Exhibition design is by Elliott Barnes.

Support for the exhibition Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé is provided by the Wilf Family Foundations, the Arnhold Family, the Peter Jay Sharp Exhibition Fund, an Anonymous donor, Wendy Fisher and the Kirsh Foundation in honor of Claudia Gould, the Goldie and David Blanksteen Foundation, the Estate of Gaby and Curtis Hereld, the Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family Foundation, Inc., Liz Lange and David Shapiro, The Feshbach Family, the Liane Ginsberg Family Fund, Michèle Gerber Klein, Ann and Mel Schaffer, John Simoudis and Jerry Rose, the Alfred J. Grunebaum & Ruth Grunebaum Sondheimer Memorial Fund, and other generous donors. Additional support is provided by CHLOÉ

The publication has been supported by CHLOÉ and the Jewish Museum.

Both the publication and the exhibition feature garments from the CHLOÉ Archive collection.

Black-and-white photograph of a woman in a short-sleeve blouse and headscarf standing in a desert landscape with sand dunes and palm trees under a partly cloudy sky.

Gaby Aghion in the desert near Alexandria, Egypt, photographed by Raymond Aghion, ca. 1940–45. Courtesy Philippe Aghion and Chloé Archive, Paris.

Exhibition highlights

  • Long cream-colored dress with botanical designs of large orange flowers and green stems, featuring blue and green patterned accents on the sleeves and hem, displayed on a hanger against a white background.

    "Astoria" dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld, spring–summer 1967, hand-painted silk crepe by Nicole Lefort. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Long sheer dress with long sleeves, decorated with clusters of dark circular appliqués covering the bust, hips, and extending down the skirt, displayed flat against a white background.

    Dress designed by Martine Sitbon, spring–summer 1990, silk crepe, black chiffon, plastic pellets, and beads. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Off-white short-sleeved top with an asymmetrical, draped silhouette and high-cut center, featuring two stylized yellow banana graphics across the chest, displayed flat against a white background.

    Shirt designed by Stella McCartney, spring–summer 2001, cotton jersey. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Light blue halter dress with a deep V neckline and black trim, featuring a ruched bodice and flowing, pleated chiffon skirt, displayed flat against a white background.

    Dress designed by Phoebe Philo, autumn–winter 2004, chiffon. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Beige cape with wide collar, button front, and asymmetrical hem, displayed on a hanger against a white background.

    Cape designed by Hannah MacGibbon, spring–summer 2010. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon. Courtesy the Jewish Museum, NY.

  • Colorful sheer gown in shades of green, blue, and pink with intricate flowing layers and yellow cords adorned with small cone-shaped ornaments, displayed on a hanger against a white background.

    Dress designed by Clare Waight Keller, spring–summer 2016, chiffon. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Mannequin dressed in a multicolored gradient T-shirt with black silhouette graphic and

    Ensemble (shirt and skirt) designed by Natacha Ramsay-Levi, spring–summer 2019, cotton (shirt), wool (skirt). © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.

  • Beige poncho with brown and black horizontal stripe pattern and fringe hem, layered over a dark brown zip-up puffer vest with a high collar, displayed on a hanger against a white background.

    Puffcho designed by Gabriela Hearst, autumn–winter 2021. © Chloé Archive, Paris. Photo by Julien T. Hamon.